SUPERB (SOMALILAND THE NEWEST TOURIST DESTINATIONS IN AFRICA )
Historical sites, nature and extensive coastlines can give Somaliland an income from tourism. But the country is not internationally recognized and Western governments warn against traveling in the region. The posters with the text “Splendid Somaliland – the latest tourist destination in Africa” only reach a few people who take that advice with a grain of salt.
Berbera is the largest port city of Somaliland. From here, valuables such as gum arabic, herbs and incense are performed. Berbera is located on the Gulf of Aden, facing Yemen, and is one of the oldest cities in Somalia and the Horn of Africa.
The historic center of Berbera is a model of the rich, pre-twentieth century Ottoman architecture with neighborhoods where there was once a flourishing traffic between Arab, Indian and Jewish trading communities.
According to some, it is a perfect place to qualify as Unesco World Heritage; it was not that Somaliland politics is still seen as a part of Somalia, a country that did not ratify the 1972 World Heritage Agreement. And in the meantime the buildings are crumbling rapidly, so that there may be nothing left for the Unesco to consider as a newcomer on their list.
Evaluable rock art
“Neglect and a lack of awareness of the value of the Somalilanders make the problem even worse,” says Jama Musse, director of the Red Sea Cultural Center in Somalia’s capital, Hargeisa. “I am not aware of plans for restoring heritage, and if they do not come soon, nothing will soon be left.”
The historic center of Berbera is not the only site that is threatened. The caves of Laas Geel are about 100 kilometers westward. “This is one of the most important and valuable sites for rock art in East Africa for at least two reasons,” says Xavier Gutherz, who led the French archaeologist’s team that discovered Laas Geel in 2002. “The large number of wall drawings and the quality of their execution The way in which animals and human figures are depicted is particularly original.”
Some of the five to ten thousand year old petroglyphs have already become unrecognizable because they are not protected against human and animal activity.
International recognition “There is no money to manage the site, our tourism department is very small,” says Abdisalam Mohamed who works in a rickety office that belongs to the Somaliland Ministry of Tourism in Hargeisa. Somaliland has still not been recognized by the international community since it declared independence from Somalia more than 25 years ago after a civil war. The government works on a small budget and is unable to access international financing or loans. The development of a tourist infrastructure is simply not a priority in these circumstances. That is why many of Somaliland’s historical attractions can be lost, and thus also the basis of a possible tourism industry that could strengthen the economy and change the growth and perspective of this wannabe nation. 850 kilometers of coastline In addition to the careless maintenance of the historic sites, there is still a tourist potential that could put Somaliland on the map: 850 kilometers of coastline, barely developed. “There is little or no infrastructure around our coasts, that should be better developed,” says Georgina Jamieson, who made a strategic study on the tourism potential of Somaliland as the key to sustainable economic growth for the country. “We concluded that the historic sites are the greatest asset for Somaliland to generate profits in the short term.”
Somaliland can also offer tourists an immersion in the nomadic and pastoral traditions of the country, Islamic history with the ruins of Masjid al-Qiblatayn in the coastal village of Zeila, one of the few old mosques with two mihrabs, prayer bells indicating the direction of Mecca, the camel market of Hargeisa, and further imposing nature and beautiful panoramas.
Vigilance
But even with so many beautiful things on offer, attracting Western tourists is a real task. After all, most governments give a negative travel advice about Somaliland or at least call for vigilance.
Despite all the challenges that Somaliland faces, crime is rather exceptional here. The last terrorist attack dates from 2008. An armed escort is sometimes recommended for visits outside the capital, but according to most, this is because the government fears that an incident with western tourists would restrict the chances of international recognition than for real threat. .
“Somaliland is placed on the same lines as Syria and Yemen, which means that hotel groups are not interested in developing here – foreign investors prefer to stay away,” says Jim Louth of travel organization Undiscovered Destinations, which guides tourists on a trip through Somaliland.
“The first step in the development of tourism is international recognition,” says Musse. “The world does not know us at the moment.” According to him, this means that tourists do not know who to turn to, let alone who would feel responsible if something went wrong.
Ethiopia interesting market
A small light point comes from neighboring Ethiopia. “The country has a huge population and can therefore become a big market for us”, says Mohammed Abdirizak who runs a travel agency in Hargeisa and organizes safaris in Somaliland.
Ethiopia is considered one of the fastest growing economies in the world with a population that is expected to count 127 million by 2037. “Many Ethiopian middle classes are traveling to Kenya or Djibouti while they can come here as well,” says Abdirizak.
“Somaliland could also benefit from the increasing number of tourists that Ethiopia itself attracts,” says Mark Rowlatt, a 56-year-old tourist who takes the travel advice with a grain of salt. He stays at the Oriental Hotel in Hargeisa and maps out a travel plan to visit Somaliland after he has already visited Ethiopia. Behind him hang posters with dazzling photos of the shores and historic sites of Somaliland and the banner “Brilliant Somaliland – the latest tourist destination in Africa.”
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